Calligraphy: A Tet Tradition In Hanoi

The ong do (calligraphy scholar) is a symbol of Tet. Traditionally, when the Tet holidays approach, one of the Vietnamese customs is writing "nice" words in calligraphy with the hope of bringing good luck to the home. A visual writing art, Calligraphy first appeared as early as feudal times and reflects Confucianism. Several days ahead of Tet, especially around the Hanoi Temple of Literature and the HCMC Cultural Youth House many ong do artists, young and old, male and female (I did not see any women), in traditional long dresses and caps, gather to paint calligraphy for residents and tourists.

At Tet, people often ask ong do to write lucky words such as Phuc (happiness), Loc (prosperity) and Tho (longevity) or poems or proverbs with meanings of good health, good luck and prosperity for the new year.

The work is done on paper and usually hangs like a scroll attached to bamboo rods. During Tet Calligraphy is given as gifts to friends and colleagues. Therefore, ong do must not only be decorative but must also know many meaningful poems and proverbs to suit the buyer’s fancy.

I spoke with many of the Calligraphers and was particularly taken by a passionate young artist who is also a classical pianist. His sister who just completed her degree in International relations spoke terrific English and was able to describe in detail the emotions behind the work her brother does. One of the scrolls he painted took him months and includes in the smallest writing all of the poems written by Ho Chi Minh during his time in prison.

Along with my purchases this lovely artist wrote in English the key words used on brown paper for me to keep. I think I will put these in a large contemporary frame to remind me of my visit.

Young Calligraphy artist and his work above. The poems of Ho Chi Minh are painted on scroll above.

Photo's by The Loaded Trunk

 Happy New Year!

Entry To Hanoi-Facebook Free

I just arrived in a Facebook free zone. Hanoi, Vietnam. I had heard from an Aussie friend that this might happen. She lives in Saigon and says it comes and goes depending upon the government. Ha! What will I do? (Answer) I will get a social media holiday that I look forward to! This is such an exciting city. It is chilly and gray here but this beautiful place with so many layers of history just beckons to be explored and always puts a smile on my face.

This next week is the beginning of Tet - Vietnamese and Chinese Lunar New Year, it is the most important Festival of Vietnamese people. It is a scared Festival and falls sometime between late January or early February (depend on Lunar Calendar). Although officially a three-day affair, festivities may continue for a week or more with every effort made to indulge in eating, drinking, and enjoyable social activities. It is also a time for family reunions, and for paying respect to ancestors and the elders. Gifts of food are made to friends, neighbors and relatives in the days before Tet.

While driving in from the airport I saw many motor bikes carrying trees.  I have been to Vietnam several times, never during Tet: I can only assume that this army of tree carrying has something to do with the traditions of celebrating this holiday.

(Photo's by The Loaded Trunk)

I can't wait to discover more...I am staying at, I kid you not, The Amazing Hotel. No, not glamorous, but already I have a time to "listen" as the manager Thom said: to his many stories about why he loves Americans. I sense adventure for these last 7 days of my trip.

Deja Vu:China Town, Bangkok

I spent 2 months last year in India traveling and buying with my daughter for The Loaded Trunk. For much of the time it was a wonderful experience though it was filled with lots of learning curves. We wrote a blog together and one of them included a day at the Jodphur market: not long after we had begun our trip. I clearly remember being so overwhelmed at exactly 4pm (there is a huge clock) in the market area. I remember standing in the center of the square with cows, goats, rats, rickshaws, motor bikes, cars with their horns continually honking, rancid smells: and what seemed like thousands of people. I had reached a state of sensory overload. We retreated to our hotel and treated ourselves to a Kingfisher beer. From that day on we used 4 pm as our timetable for ending our day of shopping.

A travel photo with just clock tower showing. Quite peaceful and beautiful hey?

Me around 4 PM and our pictures of the Jodphur market as it really is. (photo's by The Loaded Trunk)

Today in Bangkok I had deja vu in China Town. I should know better, but someone I met here suggested I head there for old textiles. Unfortunately I listened and after feeling like a rat in a crowded maze found my way out: but not after catching some shots of a place I would save to see only if you have nothing else to do and have never been to a China town anywhere else in the world.

King of Thailand. The Royal family is revered and pictures of the family are everywhere. Even old videos of the royal family play on the Sky Train.

Chinese medicine store. Did not want to know what those antlers cure.

Sizing up my day.

 Tomorrow is another day. Off to Chatuchak market!

Spirit Houses

I fell in love with these symbolic Thai mainstays of everyday life on my very first trip to Thailand. They are called spirit houses and building one (SaanPhraPhum) is an ancient Hinduism/Brahmanism practice that still exists throughout Thailand. They are everywhere and the Thais believe that these spirits or guardian angels inhabit every piece of land and need to be appeased when disturbed. By providing the spirit with a home of its own, serenity and harmony is supposed to be assured within the property. If properly respected and cared for, the spirit will provide protection and ensure wealth and prosperity to the owner (if only). The guardian spirit, or "PhraPhum" of the residence and business, is "PhraChaiMongKol".

A site selection for the spirit house, and an invitation to the spirit to take up residence, must be made. Traditionally, these are overseen by a Brahman priest or someone who specializes in conducting such ceremonies. The  time and place for it to be held is determined by astrological calculations.

Chiang Mai Spirit House.

Offerings

Phuket Spirit House, my favorite so far.

Can you smell the white Jasmine flowers?

 
They are like grown up doll houses with a soul that I can't help but be drawn to over and over.